Cross Stitch Fabric: Aida Counts and Evenweave Explained
Cross stitch fabric has an even grid of holes, so every stitch comes out the same size. Most beginners start on 14-count Aida. This guide explains the three main fabrics, what “count” means, and how to pick the right fabric for your pattern.
The three main cross stitch fabrics
You will see three fabrics in craft stores and kits: Aida, evenweave, and linen.
- Aida is 100% cotton. The weave forms a grid of small squares with a clear hole at each corner. You make one cross stitch over one square. Aida is stiff, easy to count, and the usual choice for beginners.
- Evenweave uses single threads spaced evenly in both directions. It looks finer and smoother than Aida and feels softer. You stitch over two threads at a time.
- Linen comes from flax. Its threads vary in thickness, which gives the fabric small bumps called slubs. You also stitch linen over two threads. It usually costs the most of the three.
| Fabric | How you stitch | Good to know | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aida | One stitch over one square | Stiff, easy to count, lowest cost | Beginners and kids |
| Evenweave | One stitch over two threads | Smoother look, harder to count, frays more | Your second or third project |
| Linen | One stitch over two threads | Natural slubs, wrinkles and frays easily | Samplers and heirloom pieces |
What fabric count means
The count is the number of holes per inch. On 14-count Aida, you make 14 stitches in one inch. A higher count gives you smaller stitches, and the finished design comes out smaller.
Aida counts compared
Aida comes in several counts. These four cover almost every pattern and kit.
| Aida count | Stitches per inch | Strands of floss | Needle size |
|---|---|---|---|
| 11 | 11 | 3 to 4 | 22 to 24 |
| 14 | 14 | 2 | 24 to 26 |
| 16 | 16 | 2 | 24 to 26 |
| 18 | 18 | 1 to 2 | 26 to 28 |
Your pattern or kit may list its own strand count. Follow that first. For more on strands, see our cross stitch thread guide, and for needles, see cross stitch needle sizes.
Evenweave and linen counts
Evenweave and linen list the number of threads per inch. Because you stitch over two threads, you divide the count by two to get the stitches per inch.
| Evenweave or linen count | Stitches per inch | Same size as |
|---|---|---|
| 28 | 14 | 14-count Aida |
| 32 | 16 | 16-count Aida |
| 36 | 18 | 18-count Aida |
This means you can stitch a pattern written for 14-count Aida on 28-count evenweave, and it will finish at the same size.
How to work out the finished size
Divide the number of stitches by the fabric count. The answer is the size in inches. Our cross stitch fabric calculator does the math for you.
- A design 140 stitches wide on 14-count Aida: 140 ÷ 14 = 10 inches.
- The same design on 18-count Aida: 140 ÷ 18 = about 7.8 inches.
Then add a margin. Leave at least 3 inches of bare fabric on every side, so add 6 to 8 inches to both the width and the height. You need that room for a hoop and for framing. For a design that is 140 by 180 stitches on 14-count Aida, cut the fabric at about 18 by 21 inches.
Which fabric should a beginner buy?
Buy 14-count Aida in white or cream. The squares are easy to see, two strands of floss cover it well, and most beginner patterns and kits use it. Move to 16-count Aida when you want finer detail. Try 28-count evenweave when you want a smoother look and feel ready to count threads.
If you are just getting started, read how to cross stitch for beginners next.
How to keep the edges from fraying
Cut fabric frays as you handle it. Pick one of these before you start:
- Fold the edges over and baste them with a few long stitches.
- Sew along the edges with a zigzag or overlock stitch on a sewing machine.
- Brush a fray-stopping liquid along the cut edges.
How to check the count of unlabeled fabric
- Push a pin into the fabric.
- Push a second pin in exactly one inch away.
- Count the squares between the two pins. That number is the count.
On evenweave or linen, count the threads between the pins instead.
